Snacks

Kitchen corpses (Empanadas de carne)

Kitchen corpses. If you love to cook, you’ll be likely to have a few (too many) of them. You know, those utterly useless machines clogging cabinets and those ‘handy’ utensils always jamming drawers. After every birthday party, you can add a few more precious items to the museum of kitchen futilities. Egg slicers, chocolate fountains, apple corers, pop art toasters or those cutesy corn-shaped skewers for eating the real thing on the cob….basta!

For one of these gadgets I’ll happily make an exception: my empanada maker. To make empanadas, the popular Southern-American pastries, you don’t even need this plastic tool. Latin ladies crank out perfectly shaped half-moons in a flash. And a bit of a rustic look is actually a pro for the home cook. But the thing is, if I don’t grant this empanada maker some precious storage space, I’ll forget to make them. Every time it comes tumbling out of the cabinet when I reach for something else, my friends are in for a treat!

Empanadas de carne

Makes about 8 large empanadas

These empanadas are my take on the traditional Argentinean/Chilean pastries. The dough is supple, not too flaky. It’s a tad bit sweet, which contrasts nicely with the spicy-sweet stuffing. A hearty winter snack!

For the dough:

  • 1 egg yolk
  • ½ cup water
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable shortening (or okay, margarine)
  • 2.5 cups of flour (300 grams)
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon sugar

For the filling:

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, finely diced
  • 2 small dried chillies (no seeds, finely chopped)
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon cumin
  • ¼ teaspoon mild paprika powder
  • pinch of ground cloves
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 400 grams ground meat (I asked my butcher for a 50% pork, 50% beef mix)
  • 3 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 3 tablespoons raisins
  • splash of white wine vinegar (no more than 1 teaspoon)

Mix the egg yolk and water with a fork until blended.

With your hands (because you don’t own a hand mixer with dough hooks!) work the butter and vegetable shortening into the (sifted) flour, into which you’ve added the salt and sugar.

Add a little bit of the egg mixture and start kneading. Keep adding small amounts of the mixture and keep kneading until you have a supple, smooth dough. If it’s too sticky, add some flour. Shape the dough into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

For the filling, heat the oil and sauté the onion for a few minutes over medium heat until transparent. Add the carrots and sauté for another 2-3 minutes. Add the spices, keep stirring, and add the meat. Stir! When the meat is done, add the tomato paste, raisins and vinegar, mix everything, lower the heat and let simmer for another 10 minutes. If the mixture is too dry, add a spoon of water.

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (375 °F).

Use a rolling pin to roll out the dough until about 3 mm thick (0.12 inches). Cut out circles a bit bigger than the tool’s surface when open. Place the dough on the surface, add a few spoons of the meat mix onto one half (not too much!), close and press well. Scrape off excess dough with a knife, open the form and gently place pastry on a parchment paper-lined baking dish. With a fork, prick a few holes in them. Brush the top with a bit of egg yolk and bake the empanadas about 20 minutes until golden. Let them cool on a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

Another few beautiful pictures by Luis Herrera!

The ‘Kapsalon’: fries Rotterdam-style

Thought gravy-doused poutine clogged up your arteries just by looking at it? Think again. In my native Rotterdam, people are going wild about a concoction called ‘Kapsalon’. Basically that’s a battlefield of fries, shawarma meat, gouda cheese, lots of garlic sauce, topped with lettuce. The snack is notorious for its unsurpassed beer-absorption properties.

I was a Kapsalon virgin until recently, just because soggy fries aren’t really my thing. But a couple of months ago, I had my first taste when I went back to Holland to write ‘Het Grote Frietboek’, a comprehensive book on ‘frites’. These famous Belgian and Dutch fries are usually served with mayonnaise (remember that famous scene in Pulp Fiction?), but you’ll find lots of other creative sauce combinations.

The book is doing well, we’ve sold about 60,000 copies and working on the second edition. I’m not hooked on the Kapsalon just yet, but I love the story behind it.

‘Kapsalon’ literally means ‘Hair Salon’. The snack was born in Delfshaven, a multi-ethnic neighborhood in Rotterdam. Nathaniel Gomes, a Cape Verdean hairdresser and owner of hair salon ‘Tati’, ordered lunch from the nearby restaurants and fry shops every day. Bored with the options, he decided to mix things up a bit. He asked the owners at the next-door kebab shop ‘El Aviva’ to pair fries and shawarma meat in an aluminum container. A Turkish assistant of the salon thought it was a good idea to top it off with gouda cheese, place the whole thing under the grill and serve it with garlic sauce, hot sauce and lettuce. Clients who saw Nathaniel relish the snack wanted to have it too, but since it had no formal name, he said they should ask for a ‘kapsalon’ (‘hair salon’). It became an instant hit, and all kebab and fry shops in the city soon added it to the menu.

Go to any fry shop in Rotterdam during the wee hours and you’ll find hoards of party people lining up for their portion of ‘Kapsalon’. The snack is a cross-cultural best seller: you see people of all ages, ethnicities and social groups thankfully dive into it.

To me, this is why the ‘Kapsalon’ represents Rotterdam for me. I’m definitely going to have it again, but I’ll make sure to have some beers before I order, because I’m sure pretty sure it’ll taste fantastic then.

Kapsalon

Serves 1 starving night crawler, ideally slightly intoxicated

  • 1 portion Dutch fries
  • 200 gram shawarma meat
  • garlic sauce
  • hot sauce (optional)
  • 1 slice gouda cheese
  • 1 handful of iceberg lettuce

Put fries into aluminum container, add shawarma meat, drizzle with garlic sauce and hot sauce (optional). Top with gouda cheese and place under a hot grill for 2-3 minutes until cheese has melted. Finish off with a layer of iceberg lettuce and serve with a plastic fork and lots of napkins.

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